cutting out the pieces from deerskin. the muslin mock-up is to the right, you can just see the practice cap on the extreme right.
i had ten days to do these caps, between the time my art grant deadline closed and xmas. i had two deerskins santa brought me this fall, and an old dry-rotted mink coat my mom gave me, and a cheap leather jacket someone threw away.
i realized after cutting out the practice cap pieces that i was not going to be able to follow my first idea, which was to make two omplete caps out of deerskin and sandwich them around a fur cap. i wanted to make them warmer than fuck, like the shearling cap i was trying to copy. that would take at least two layers, because one skin on top of jim’s bald pate isn’t very warm. but i didn’t have enough deerskin.
santa explained it this way. you’ve got a cap. it’s 28″ around. what’s that diameter look like? it’s a big circle, is what, and how many big circles do you think are on a human-sized hunk of skin cut in half down the middle? not a lot. the middle back, the lower back. maybe the haunches if you’re fat.
having determined that i wasn’t going to get half a dozen caps out of the deerskin, i cast about for something to help extend my options. a comb thru my stash drawers turned up tapestry and fur-coat lining, and then i remembered a leather jacket our homeless man dropped off one day thinking we could use it and knowing it’d just get robbed off him. it was your typical leather jacket, with loads of construction and real thin split leather. but the strength of the various layers wouldn’t matter so much since i was going to in effect quilt them.
deerskin part completed, cutting out pieces from cow leather coat
so i used the time waiting to see a specialist to cut apart the leather jacket. i sat there in a crowded waiting room and used my sharp shiny shears to cut around all the stitching lines. leather, i have found, doesn’t ever close up around a wound. if you stick a needle into it, the hole stays.
this says bad things about the propensity of doctors to order blood tests.
so you can’t resew a piece of leather without weakening it, because you can’t guarantee the machine’s going to use the same holes, and so you’re just punching more holes in a staight line, and soon it’s micro perferations and you’re screwed.
eventually i had a little pile of leather squares and oblongs and trapezoids and other plane geometry objects. and a huge tangle of seams still joined all together in a vaguely coat shape. we got a lot of visiting done in the waiting room once the ladies noticed me cutting pieces out of something, which of course they did immediately but had to work thru the southern politeness thing.
having cut both the fur and the leather coat into pieces
i had a bunch of leather jacket pieces, graded by thickness and delicateness, with only the worst pieces put aside for some other project. pack rat here.
i had my mom’s ex fur coat which i’d torn into as big chunks as possible because you never know what you might use it for eventually. there were lots of places where the stitching had failed, and places where the piecing of the pelts had failed and the thing was falling into tatters. i couldn’t tell which were the maybe good pieces from the ones ready to come apart – without tearing them apart. anyplace i put my strength to would rip, but the whole thing held together if i didn’t put any pressure on it. maybe sandwiched between two skins it would be okay…
making the fur batting or inner lining
i went out and bought something to put on the fur skin to recondition it. i couldn’t find mink oil, all i could find was some improperly labelled spray thing for shoes. it wasn’t waterproofing, i didn’t want that. fur is already water shedding. i wanted something oily to get down into those pores and moisturize. something for the connective tissue to hold on to.
it just so happened that the shoulders of the fur coat were rounded almost as much as the flattened hat, and so i figured if i cut out two half circles and sewed them together i’d be able to fit it roughly inside the 7-cornered hat i copied from the sheepskin version my sister gave me. i did that for this one i’m showing below, the first production hat. for the others i cut out lozenge shaped fur sides, fortunately i cut them all going the same way, because the nap on those things is fierce.
the original sheepskin cap, sudie, and my first deerskin cap
my little dog sudie weighs ten poinds. my sister got her for me when i was recovering from cancer surgery. little lap dogs help in the healing process and are a general laugh riot. this one’s a king charles spaniel. she’s not like the breed, which is outoging and friendly. sudie is suspicious and dim witted. but she’s beautiful, and she sleeps in my lap all day. she’s tucked inside my housecoat at the moment, snoozing away while i sit in the cold back room and type with my keyboard next to her head. yes, and included in the above picture, the deerskin cap inside out (the suede goes next to your head, the wrong side is the shiny leather side that will back the fur).
right-the inside, deerskin suede; left-outside, ex-leather jacket
presto chango i’ve finished two of them. but not so fast. these are the best two. the first one is on jim’s head all day long, and he won’t let me do anything more to it. the first production one is sitting on my sewing table. i didn’t anchor the fur inside the assemblage, and it shifted. fur is bunched up near the front edge, and missing in the back. i’m going to have to take the thing apart and redo it. many stitches.
santa came by in the middle of my working on the first one and persuaded me to abandon the central circle and just extend each pie slice to a point in the middle. but this was complicated by something bad – i hadn’t made 7 copies of the basic pie shape, i made one copy of each pie slice, which were all quite different from each other, as measured by holding a round hat against a flat piece of paper and trying to draw around it. i extended each irregular pie slice to a point.
so when i sewed the caps together, i had a whole varying range of peaks. you’re supposed to make them all meet in the center, a perfect 7 pointed star.
this is why i can’t do traditional quilting. the precision needed to make all the pieces sew up just the same is too much for me. why, i’m not sure i could do it if i were working by hand, but the machine just slews fabric every which way, and i can barely get straight seems, never mind the two layers crawling against each other, never mind leather pieces slipping, and naps preventing evenness.
i ended up going over the cap top after i’d sewn the sides on, artificially putting in a curve. but it was ugly. why did the original design use 7 piece caps? the norm is 4, right, one for each quadrant of your head. and i’ll be that doesn’t sew together easily. it’s orbital geometry, it’s not like plane geometry. i’m tearing my hair out. i need a circular sewing machine.
but they all fit flat on my head when i smoothed them out. one of the hats turned out much larger than the others. it was the last one, and i didn’t need to take it in to make the segments even as much as i had with the other caps. learning curve.
when they say these hats are easy to sew, they’re not counting on me, who never Rs TFM, and decides in the middle to do it her way anyhow.
i had to go over the finished hats and stitch the lining in, quilting it, but only at the seams and not many stitches at all. the fur will shift, as i found out on the first one. the fur has such a nap on it that it crawls even while you’re holding it down. even when you pin it in place. it’s creepy. still going for the fence even after you’ve blown its head off.
i had a lot of trouble with the brims. first of all, i cut them out curved, like the original cap. and then i realized that leather eases, and i could have cut a straight line and had it work, even tho in a bucket cap, the outer edge of the brim is longer around than the inner edge. the leather will stretch. this stuff will, anyway.
whenever i attached a brim, and i did it four times, i had too much play in the outer edge. it was going to need taking in, or cutting differently, something. i didn’t know what to do with it. i didn’t have long enough pieces of the jacket leather to use as a brim, and figured i could get away with rolling the brim made of deerskin around the edge of the fur cap inside and up over the edge of the cow leather cap on the outside, and then just stitch it closed.
which because it was too wide, it didn’t fit and needed a alot of little tucks and eases-in. it’s a bit awkward. but again, leather eases, so it just looks strange.
the hat is much shorter than the muslin pattern, or jim’s test hat, or the original. he had to roll it way up to get itt o perch on to pof his punckin head. he handled a skull cap better than something that came down over his years. he’s wearing it in the studio during the day and keeping the heat down because i’m not down there. i know it. but when i saw how he rolled it i decided it was too long, and cut the muslin pattern down for the ones that i also made peaks on , which ended up being the ones i wrapped up for xmas presents.
to tell the truth, i can’t see the details in the deerskin suede. i found it hard to photograph, the suede takes the light in and doesn’t give it back. my eyes are going bad, and i work in low light, and so i probably don’t see the glaring flaws visible to anyone wholooks at it out of doors.
i want to make up a label that acknowledges the difference between art and craft. because my craft on these hats is woeful. it’s illustrative of how much trouble it is to get right, and how much practice you need to do it right over and over. i show my stitches – and they’re wreckless. jim says i’m using an abstract expressionist stitching technique.
i want to start a series of one-off wearable art pieces. i’ll call them “fucked up clothes by jeanne. “