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jim and i have just been given a set of four new pigments to play with. they’re the famous mayan blue family of pigments, brand new, patented even, and they’re completely nontoxic and lightfast. they’re made from a special process that duplicates whatever the hell the mayans did to make it 500 years ago, using a mixture of indigo and a fine kaolin-type clay, and now they’re just beginning to make it for use in large-scale processes, like for coloring plastic. nobody’s manufacturing the paints for artists as yet, the amount anybody would be likely to buy in order to make a line of paints is negligible – a couple of pounds at most, when they want to be selling it by the truckload. but we are privileged to have samples of these new pigments to play with, and so play we must.

jim has already finished a painting using the mayan pigments, and it is now hanging in his new show, which opens tonight, even tho it’s snowing outside right now and nobody does snow in atlanta. would have opened tonight, or will but nobody will be driving just out of fear. including us. i’m not going to be out on the road when we hit a slick patch and some complete southerner slides on it too – right into us. i’ll be home making hot chocolate and putting whiskey into it.
yesterday i finished up my preparations for jim’s show (framing and documentation) and decided i wanted to play with the pigments too. my specialties are oil, watercolor and encaustic, while jim does acrylic, tempera and encaustic. together we cover the spectrum of media you can mix pigments with to make paint. i decided to start with watercolor.
there’s a blob of gum arabic in the middle of each of these wells. i’ve just spooned a knifetip of pigment out into the wells and then added two drops of gum arabic. our gum arabic is a little old and too amber for my tastes, and alters the yellow slightly, but not enough to make any difference.
the yellow is a wonderful bright orange yellow. the pigment is strong, meaning i didn’t need to use much.
the orange is the same. a little went a long way. a very vivid color that stayed bright after drying.
the red is weaker, a magenta almost, and somewhat like the quinacridones in that you need rather a lot of pigment to make a strong color, compared to the others.
but what the red lacked in strength, the blue more than made up for. a very strong color, and so indigo.
the blue was the first color i put onto the paper. i could tell the moment i saw it that this was a pigment that started out as indigo. it could be nothing else. i put down a strong line of each of the colors, blue, red, orange and yellow, and then ran a brush of clear water to the right of the lines to soften the edge and let the paint bleed into the clear water.
they are beautifully grainy. the blue and red especially have lovely sedimentation. the orange and yellow stay bright and vivid no matter how thick or thin.
it’s funny, it’s been years – 30 at least – since i’ve done anything at all with indigo. i used to paint with it all the time when i was in ireland – perfect clouds can be made with indigo and yellow ochre, and there’s nothing like indigo for painting blue jeans.
here’s why i don’t do more demonstrations. with every intention in the world to photograph every step of the way, i take maybe one, maybe two shots of the process, and then i get so into what i’m doing that i just skip over the next four or five processes and rush on to the end. which doesn’t really show anything because it’s showing too much.
i used a dryer on the first four colors, then turned the sheet sideways and put a heavy line full of paint across all four colors. so the bottom row above is yellow. i went back and forth one time with my brush, and saw this as a mistake. the coming back stroke immediately bled the colors underneath, and you can see blue to the left of the blue column, and red, and orange to the right of those columns.
having learned just how easily the paint would bleed, i was more light handed with the orange paint, but still you can see it bled the blue. so did the red. after doing this, i took a little more dilute paint and put a thin line in between.
then i took clear water, and ran a column of clear water thru the original (vertical) stripes, then blotted the water away. as you can see, none of these are staining pigments. then i took really thick paint and drew a thin line right at the edge of the first vertical washes. not really sure why i did that; testing opacity.
i can’t tell from opacity, i’m deficient in my color theory something something. the yellow looks abolutely opaque to me, the way it shows so heavy when i put it on (extreme left column). but it doesn’t make a dent in the colors beneath it, so it must be transparent. jim concurs. he says these pigments are very transparent.
transparent. non-staining. beautifully sedimentary. lightfast. nontoxic. could you ask for more?
at this point, only daniel smith offers the mayan blue and red pigments made up into watercolor. kremer pigments offers mayan blue pigment itself. it’s my hope that some small paint manufacturers get hold of these pigments and make some paints out of them, because they’re very nice.
i did a sample painting using only the four mayan pigments – yellow, orange, red, blue. the blue is a greenish blue, the red is a bluish red, the yellow is an orange yellow and the orange is a red orange. according to michael wilcox, whom i’ve never met, you combine like-leaning colors for bright mixes, and combine opposite-leaning colors for rich grays. meaning the greenish blue and the orange yellow blend into a nice rich grayed green. the bluish red and the greenish blue blend into a dull purple. the orange yellow and the bluish red blend up into a golden brown.
these are not primary colors. nor are they high-chroma colors. but because the trick to good painting is to go with the richness of neutralized colors. look at those clouds at the top of the picture. nice and richly purple brown. better than my old standby cloud colors – indigo and yellow ochre. the purple is more than adequate, the greens are very rich and varied, and the yellow and orange are as bright as any in my palette.
but the trouble with the painting i’d finished is that it was out of my head, and i don’t do that very well at all.
so i took out a 30-year old photo of valencia island in ireland, and got out all my watercolors, and set about paintings it. the indigo mayan blue accounts for the deep ocean color, but i had to go in with cobalt blue and that caribbean blue you can see together in the lower right corner of the big palette. then i had to wash all the water with prussian blue, the second-from-the-right well on the bottom row of wells. also, the blue in the sky had to be the caribbean because mayan blue is not a light blue, it’s an indigo. i used mayan yellow on the nearby landforms, a mixed mayan green for the fields and hills, a mixed mayan purple for the clouds, umber and ultramarine for the rocky coastline.
all in all a very useful set of colors in a full palette. you can see the mayan colors, plus the mixed green and purple, in the little white palette in the middle of the larger palette. that’s a really bright yellow there.
this isn’t the best painting i’ve ever done, but it’s also 4×7 inches, and i did it in about an hour. don’t know what i’ll do with it. i’d send it to my friend francis for his birthday, but he thinks my work is twee, so he probably wouldn’t like it, even tho he was with me when i shot the reference photos.
mayan pigments – if you can find them, you’ll like using them.

it really is pretty up there, folks. the extreme southern splash of the appalachians, all mountains and valleys and swift flowing rivers, with ancient cherokee fishing weirs all over the place. there’s this place near helen. it’s a gift shop of renown, and they’ve got a deck out back and a basement down below that look onto a great trout stream, where there are hundreds of what look like 20-pounders to me. so i’ve been there twice, tho i get lost every time, and had my camera with me. what we’re seeing in the picture above is the underpainting in pastel. i don’t actually do an underpainting, just a few lines telling me where everything is. i usually do the painting just the one time, rather than a painting underneath that just gets covered up. i mean, what’s the point? jim always does an underpainting in a contrasting medium, and often he does studies as well. i just prefer to go with what i see and feel and work out the relationships on the canvas.
what you’re seeing is the trout stream, about 20 feet below me. there are rocks on the lower left which are out of the water, part of the bank on which the old mill stands. you can see the bottom for about 10 feet, and you can see all kinds of huge trout in a frenzy over what is being tossed to them by tourists (a little candy dispenser with fish pellets in it, a handful for a quarter). beyond, you begin to see reflections, so there are alternating stripes of blue sky and orange fall foliage, and still there are fish under the surface but you can’t tell much with the glare.

i’ve begun putting on the wax. this is the lower left corner of the painting, and i’m putting wax on it first because it’s out of the water, and therefore needs to have some heavy texture. what is painting in wax about if not impasto, at least until you melt it…
i’m using white wax first, because it gives me the most trouble. by this i mean it melts at the highest temperature, and so i put it on first and burn it in so that it’ll be done and i don’t have to mess with it again. because once i put other colors on and try to burn them in, if i put white on afterwards, then the darker colors all run by the time i get the wax even slushy.
i’m learning from last time, so i think. the last thing i did was a house portrait, way finicky for wax, and i had to resort to masking in order to keep the whole picture from churning. i learned that you work from light to dark or else. i was taught light-to-dark in watercolor, but i’ve always ignored that rule because i like to have contrast present early. sometimes i put the darks in first. but i can’t do that with wax.

or can i? here i go putting in blue for the darkest shadows. i’m not really worried about it because the white’s already hardened, and the blue will melt way before the white softens, and my only issue is will the orange melt appreciably faster? well, it does, but the areas are small enough that i can scoot over parts that are melting for parts that aren’t, and then come back for a moment at a time until the wax is just at the edge where it starts to run.
you’re getting one step at a time here. usually i don’t put this many photos in, because i basically can’t tell the difference until quite a few changes have been made. if i took notes, but then i couldn’t stand to take notes. but if i did take notes, i’d know a hell of a lot more about fabric dyeing, for one thing, and silk painting. and cooking. oh well.
what i’ve done above is to put in some buff white in for some of the rocks, orange where the orange rocks and floating leaves go, and then some blue on the edges of the rocks that are quite dark in the reference photo. i also have begun texturizing the large rocks to the left and bottom, putting little bits of brown and blue on them.
actually, the blue i used was way old. i have this habit of keeping all the wax i don’t use, putting an inverted cup over the colored lumps to keep them soft, and then using them again the next painting i do. so i have bunches of white left from the holbox painting, for example. and buff white. and some green. and the black i used in the windows. all that shows up here. the blue, however, is from several paintings back, and air had gotten in under the glass, and it was really tough, even after i thinned it greatly with citrus oil. and it really didn’t want to melt, either. usually when i put on a freshly thinned batch of wax, it’s still wet when i burn it in, smelling pleasantly of oranges (no physical symptoms, either, no eyes stinging, no lung pain, no nausea), and it tends to melt at a lower temperature than wax that has already been burned in. it starts to soften immediately, since it’s still wet, and once i’ve burned it, it buffs up really well, and that’s how i know it’s set and there’s no more solvent in the wax.

what you’re seeing now is the same painting as that one above, but after burning in the blue and orange. you can see a shininess in the blue line at the top of the photo. as i suspected, you can’t really tell the difference at this distance between freshly painted wax and burned in wax, altho close up it’s appreciable, even striking.

at this point i wiped away most of the pastel, which i hadn’t bothered to fix, so that i could see better. and then i put the rest of the buff white over the bottom of the painting to the right, where i had already decided i wouldn’t put any paint until i had the rocks finished. good intentions, why do i bother?

and this is what the whole thing looks like. you can see that the part i’m working on is very small (24×30 masonite panel, gessoed a light gray). the buff white goes out to 3/4 of the way to the right edge, and up to the level of the big dark underwater rock to the left. you might be able to see a little blending of the wax with the pastel. unfixed pastel blends with wax because it’s basically loose pigment on the board, and the wax just absorbs it and mixes it in.

this looks so abstract. i’ve put in some blackish very thin wax around the edges of the rocks that are out of the water. this is a reinforcement of the marks i’d made with the blue. i’ve got some burnt sienna, and the white dots are actually not quite white, but lighter than the buff of the river bottom. i’ve also continued developing the texture in the 2 big rocks to the bottom and left, and the large underwater rock above. this is a shot taken after burning it in. you can see in the large underwater rock that the white has moved and bloomed (check out the previous 2 pictures).

now i’m really restating the black. i’ve mixed up new black, which actually more consists of dioxazine purple and raw umber. it’s extremely thin, so thin i put it on with a brush, an old wax stiffened brush i had laying about. perhaps i could have cleaned it before using it, as it left a sort of trench with parallel sides when i put paint on with it, but i figured what the hell, since i’m just going to melt it anyway. and lines this thick, i want to see them melt right down. at this point the painting looks kind of cartoonish. i’m wondering about it, but keeping on, because every middle stage painting is ugly. and the middle stage can start with the establishment of the composition.

it melted down some. you can see this best in that triangular lump about 1/8th in from the bottom right, offshore of the big rock at the bottom. altho the black was very wet, and flowed out immediately, i still had to watch the other colors, especially the sienna, since it turned shiny and liquid faster than the other colors.

now i’ve stuck some blue in as light spots on the rocks. the wet rocks in between the two big rocks are very shiny. mainly they look black and the highlights look blue. the only change here is very difficult to spot. i put a layer of clear beeswax over the rocks that are partially obscured by water. the blue space between the large rock on the bottom and the smaller white rock next to it, as well as the space between those rocks and the large white rock to the left, has got maybe an inch of water on it, but it’s enough to ripple and obscure the details. so i’ve stuck clear wax on it and have burned it in, and you really can’t see it.

so now i’ve added just a smear of very thin white over this, with my finger, and burned it back in. you can see especially on the blue space between the two white rocks on the bottom, where it’s now milky. the other spots still don’t show much.
well, it’s hard to believe i left it that way last night. what probably happened is that there are pictures in the camera. i’ll get to it soon. it’s time to walk the dogs, and jim gets impatient. he’ll start off by himself if i don’t hurry.
oopsie, i forgot to take this out of draft and publish it. it’s the first part of the first encaustic i’ve done. i started with a drawing of a dragon jim idid for another project, and traced it onto about 8×10 canvas glued onto a masonite board. very heavy.

first and a half stage
i’m using wax paste and pigment, put on with a brush. the dragon’s head is napthol red and indian red, the claws and scales are raw sienna and a little white. i’ve started turning the tendrils blue. the background is green oxide in the diluted wax paste.

second stage and three quarters
i’ve started putting white in. i repainted the background using green oxide and hansa yellow. at this point i’m beginning to feel the old frustration. i hate white. white makes everything look pasty.
i used a pallette knife to put white on the teeth, and to adjust where the teeth went. i was still accidently putting my wrist into the teeth several hours later.it was still wet.
i’m wondering what kind of painting i’m doing. it doesn’t look real, even tho it looks dimensional already. maybe when i’m doing self portraits or still lives it’ll start looking real. i don’t do well with fantasy when i’m just learning a new medium. i do better being faithful to what it looks like.
i’m painting with wax right now. evidently you’re supposed to use heat when you do encaustic, but jim remembers being taught how to do encaustic cold, with solvents, and knows artists who went their entire careers doing encaustic paintings with cold wax.
so he mixed me up a jar of beeswax shavings and turpentine, and now i have a heavy gel that i’ve been mixing with my pigments and painting on with a brush.
something else that’s never done, not only am i not working with gloves and a respirator (they recommend fume hoods and glove boxes), but i’m working with little piles of pigment sitting out there on the pallette waiting to be mixed into the wax paste. i’m doing all the health standard no-nos, everything except smoking, eating, and drinking in the studio. and actually i’m doing one or more of those as well. but i haven’t dipped my paintbrush into my coffee yet. so there.

third and a half stage
i’ve started getting bold. i decided that just having a head hanging there in space wasn’t good enough when i could clearly see the ghostof a neck curving out into the picture, so i gathered up some of the ochre and umber, and some of the hansa yellow, and some of the naphtol red, and started putting it down thickly with the wax paste. this stuff really gets impasto.
i’m loving this. it’s like using crayons really heavily. i’m not seeing any translucency yet, but the colors blend well, and they get nice and deep.
i’m hoping to be able to make the tendrils a real deep blue that shines out, and have a lot of work to do getting the neck looking right.

fourth stage
tomorrow i need to dampen down the background some, need to reshape the claws, need to shape the mane of tendrils and the body behind it. the jaw needs resculpturing and the lip line needs to be brought down a bit on top.
the more i paint on here, the thicker it gets. the thicker the strokes i put on compared to how i started. like i get more sure and bold, or too enthusiastic and ruin things, depending on your viewpoint.
or is it a function of the paint layers and my impatience? when i worked at cafe tu-tu tango and had 4 hours to finish a 14×20 oil painting, i would have real trouble near the end getting the paint to show up against all the layers underneath. it got really goopy and the paint went on reluctantly unless it was way thicker than what i was putting it down into. it got kind of like that tonight, except that the layers, most of them, were dry to the touch when i went back into it.
being mixed with turpentine, which evaporates in a hurry, the wax can be brushed on in many different thicknesses, which will harden up as the turpentine evaporates out of it. so by tomorrow i expect even the thick stuff to feel like wax insted of mayonnaise.
jim is fixing to order some microcrystalline wax, because he thinks he’ll like the qualities it gives to beeswax. we’re going for a pound, and looking for the best price on 10 lbs of beeswax. we’re both getting into encaustic in a big way.
april ’08. projects in the air at the moment
lisa’s scenic irish quilt. status – 4/27/8 ripping seams and washing out mildew
asha’s bellydancing veil – helix nebula. status – 4/27/8 practice scarves, half dozen
baby quilt using baby clothes
dyed sheets – crinkle dyed. status – 4/27/8 dyed, waiting to be sewn.
silk of ‘over ireland’ painting
production of dragon and crane scarves
something important that i’m missing now




























