in recent posts (the prior two i think) i experimented to find a cheap water-based resist for silk painting. you can get little tubes or bottles of proprietary resist from the dye houses, but they’re way fucking expensive, and i’ll be damned if i’m going to be held hostage to somebody’s formula. grrr.
so i thought about it, and looked it up, and found recipes for rice starch paste and other things that i didn’t like the look of. and i cast my eye on my little unused bag of sodium alginate. i had it because all the books said to have it. to thicken the dye. but in silk painting you want watery dyes. thick dyes are for like painting dye directly on cotton fabrics. for silk you use a resist line.
of course, this is mere tradition. you can use what you like on what you like. that’s art. the question is rather of the integrity of your materials. how long will your work last is more important than what brand of paint you used.
so i’ve developed a secret recipe for sodium alginate water-based resist that you can have FOR FREE.
that’s right, knowledge should be free. free for all to use as best they can.
using the recipe for print paste that i probably found on paula burch’s hand-dyeing website, or mostly using the recipe, because i am constitutionally barred from following recipes exactly, here’s a go at remembering how i did it
i only made up half a batch at a time, too, not to waste any.
1 tsp sodium alginate
couple of splashes rubbing alcohol
mix alginate with alcohol to moisten.
1/4c hot water
1/2 a teaspoon urea
pinch calgon
dissolve urea and calgon in hot water, then add alginate/alcohol mix and stir until well blended. might as well make it in a blender, except in these amounts it would be ridiculous.
basically, follow print paste recipe except double or fourple the amount of alginate, then add alcohol and calgon for various reasons et voila.
it thins with water to go on with a brush – as noflow or antifusant.
it goes into a little squeeze bottle with a tip and comes out in thin lines that resist the spread of dye.
and i save big time.
one bottle of brand name water-based resist $8.75 for 3.5 oz
one bottle of antifusant $5.48 for 8 oz
one pound of sodium alginate $20. guess how many 3.5 oz bottles you can make up with a pound of alginate measured out a teaspoon at a time.
i’m keeping some in the fridge because i forgot about it, but one of these days real soon now i’ll take it out and see if it’s still good, or has it gone runny and gloppy. it’s got alcohol in it, so maybe it’ll last awhile.
even the $9 for 3.5 oz goes bad after awhile.
so i’m crowing.
now, i’m certain i’ve just reinvented the wheel. dyers have undoubtedly known about this for donkeys’ years.
but it’s news to me.
i just hate paying for the convenience of someone making it up for me. i hate paying the 10,000% profit that some corporation is making just because i don’t know how to do it myself.
that’s another kind of slavery. so here’s a way to get around buying one more little thing you need to make art.
it’s all part of a conspiracy to hobble the artist. artists traditionally made it all themselves, from powdering the rocks to building the stretchers. and more and more, art stores are marketing to artists as if art is just a hobby, as if convenience was the thing, as if we were too damned busy making a living so we could afford to go to an art supply store and plunk down a couple of hundred dollars for a bunch of things we have no idea how to make.
i prefer to make them. and the knowledge i’ve gained enables me to make art out of anything. cue evil laugh.


5 comments
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June 13, 2009 at 5:54 pm
MoeJoe
Great idea, thanks for sharing it.
June 26, 2009 at 4:40 pm
sunshine
hi there! I came across this and was so excited (your art philosophy rocks!), but I can’t seem to get it to work out correctly. I am wondering what I am doing wrong….I was hoping to make, basically, a dyed red linen with white dots, I am painting on the Procion red dye (with a mixture of sodium alginate to thicken the colors) and I made the resist recipe without alcohol, but otherwise the same, and the back side of the linen resists, mostly… ( its pink on the underneath of where I have painted it on), but the front doesn’t look any different.
any ideas? Maybe I need a thicker mixture, but its already so thick… could it be because I soaked the product in soda ash first and let air dry? maybe its that the red dye has alginate in it as well and mixes?
any suggestions would be wonderful!
thanks,
sunny
June 26, 2009 at 5:18 pm
jeanne
well, for linen and cotton and thick silk i usually have to put resist on the back as well. it has to go all the way thru the fabric or the dye leaks around the back. did i answer your question?
July 7, 2009 at 7:38 am
lorene
Being new at this form of creativity, I purchased my first resist and dyes recently…now I find the resist needs to dry clean off! Costly. I like this formula you have shared and will try it…Do you think it can be dyed a color? Appears it is only rubber based that are dyed black and metalic and can not be removed.
Also, I need assistance…I found when using the green label dye and soaking it the 5 minutes in setting solution the orange and red dye came out….where did I do wrong? Is steam setting a must?
Thanks
July 13, 2009 at 12:31 pm
jeanne
the resist you bought was real gutta percha, not water-based, and so it needs a solvent to remove it. bummer.
i have never used the setting solution, and have only ever steam set my dyes. and sometimes, i don’t know why, they wash out even after setting. that’s a problem i’m still trying to solve. why don’t you go to paula burch’s hand-dyeing site and see if you can’t get a better answer there: http://www.pburch.net/dyeing.shtml
good luck.